ich fahre zwar nur einen alten E32, aber wir haben vor 2 Wochen mal 3 Servotronikmodule getestet und repariert vom E32.
Dazu hatten wir uns extra Widerstaende gebaut, Laempchen angeschlossen und einen schoenen Oszillographen angeschlossen.
Ich war ja nur Assistent, da mir gegenueber ein Dipl. Ing. Elektrik/Elektronik sass, der mir dass dann zu erklaeren versuchte.
Jedenfalls aehnliches Symptom bei 2 der Geraete.
Es wurden einige Bauteile getauscht, die mir aussahen wir Elktrokondensatoren, Dioden und Transistoren und schon ging es wieder.
Hier mal etwas aehnliches, das wir uns vorher angesehen hatten
Repaired my Servotronic today + - The BMW 7 Series (E32) Forum
There's no sure-fire way to determine if a transistor is bad.
The two methods are:
a) compare it to a known-good one of the same kind
b) test for the presence of two diodes and an open circuit between the emitter and collector in both directions.
Details on b: (you will HAVE to know which leads are base-collector-emitter)
For an PNP transistor (ZTX753):
1) set the DMM to the "diode test"
2) connect the BLACK lead of the DMM to the base (usually center lead)
3) connect the RED lead to the collector (usually left lead when looking on the marked side) and then emitter. Both tests should show a voltage drop of 0.5-0.8 VDC. And there must be no leakage in the opposite direction.
4) set the DMM to the "resistance test" and test for open circuit between the collector and emitter.
For an NPN transistor (BC33740):
x) perform same operations but substitute BLACK lead for RED lead.
Both of my transistors had a current flow in the resistance test and one also had a blown diode.
The transistors were the second point on my list. The first one was the capacitor. It tested good (tested with a Fluke 83, by determining how fast the bar graph charges, etc, per manual). Actually I hold a BS in Computer Science and Math