Karosserie: Wiring route for rear EDC shock

[gasi]

Zitat von andrewgrhogg

My understanding is that the EDC ECU is accessible from INPA from the 20-pin port. Is that not the case?

Sure, that works but for the ESP ECU only when using an ADS capable interface.

Zitat von andrewgrhogg

If the shocks are too old or damaged then i will send them to be refurbished. For now i need to find if there is just a broken wire or similar that i can fix.

Ok. I just do not expect a wire to be the problem, because the wires are all hidden away an never move in any way. It is rather probable that the ECU is gone. Many friends here experienced that and were looking for a way to get the ECU fixed, because a new one is terribly expensive and a used one could also be be damaged already.

Zitat von andrewgrhogg

In order to do this i need to first rear error codes (others here in US have used regular code readers with 20-pin to do this for EDC errors) and then test each shock electrically while still in the car.

Read the codes is really key. Then you get an idea of the trouble.
To do the manual power thing you need the Pin layout of the plugs to know which lines are to be connected. Or probably you can manually activate by the diagnostic app which would be the safer way.

Zitat von andrewgrhogg

This is the connector i have and will use. Are you saying that it will not access the EDC module?  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1

Exactly. With the one in your link you will be able to access all kind of stuff but not the ESP, because as I said you need an interface that supports oldfshioned ADS instead of more modern ODB. ESP ECU ist kind of a dinosaur interacewise.
E.g. this one does the job letting you switch OBD and ADS.
I am using it myself as many other colleages here.
 https://doitauto.de/ADS-OBD-Diagnose...iabas/37545568

[andrewgrhogg]

Quick update...i just went outside and used my Foxwell NT510 Elite and a standard 20-pin connector to OBD, and it seems to be able to read errors from the EDC module. And I got a single error - 50-EDC Valve Coils.

FYI a friend got 50 and 53 errors and it was a broken wire at the front shock, just near the connector.

[gasi]

Lucky you, that it could read the codes.

Somehow the code reminds me to the "broken ECU thing".
I will try to find the respective thread where that was dicussed.

Typically broken wires are reported a s such. Like "connection interruption or shortcut".

Do you have electrically adjustable rear seats?
If not, removing the shelf is feasable though it is some work.

[gasi]

 https://www.7-forum.com/forum/showthread.html?t=245790

whereas here the error was „80 Ucoil: Schluss nach Masse“ (shortcut to ground)

[andrewgrhogg]

Quick update - i checked my front shocks wiring again. I had done this before and seen nothing wrong. I double checked today and just where the wire exits the rubber boot, on the front left shock, the black sheath is worn through and the wiring is showing.

I will fix that wiring tomorrow, reset the codes and go for a drive and see what happens.

Another update:
.i started stripping back the black exterior cover for the 3 wires to the shock. As i do this the yellow, red and white insulation on the 3 wrires inside is just crumbling and falling off. So now i have the shock wire with about 2" of bare wires and no insulation - i have not cut any of the wires. Using my variable DC power supply ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HYK2ZW3...roduct_details) i have fed 4.5v/1amp to each of the red and yellow wires, with white as the ground. One valve you can easily hear switching. The other valve im not sure. Tomorrow i am going to try the same test with the right front shock and see if i can hear both valves triggering. If one is silent than ill assume the left shock is fine and then i will use "liquid tape" to seal the bare wires on the left shock and then clear codes and see what happens.

[andrewgrhogg]

I did a few more things today:
1. Tested triggering the right shocks two valves with the same 4.5 volts and 1 amp. I "think" i could hear one valve trigger, but not the other. I will try with a higher voltage tomorrow - maybe 6v.
2. Did a continuity test on the three bare wires on the left, broken shock. Testing between each of the bar wires to see if there was contact inside the rest of the covered wire. I made the mistake of not thinking about what Ohms the continuity buzzer would go off at. So connecting any one wire to any other wire showed "continuity", which was puzzling. I thought i had a short in the wires inside the rest of the covered wire or in the shock itself. Of course i did not have a true short. When i switched to reading the actual Ohms, i got 3.6 ohms from the positive of each valve to ground (which is the correct reading), and about 6.7 Ohms between the two positives - which makes sense, since the path taken is from one positive terminal, thru the coil, then to the common ground, then back through the second coil and to the other positive terminal. So, the resistance between the two positive terminals should be about double what one coil shows.

Plan tomorrow is to try to trigger the valves with about 6v, and then to cover the bare wires with liquid tape, then wrap them up with normal tape, and then clear codes and drive. And see what happens...

[currymacka]

Andrew: Did you solve the problem? I have the same issue as you with fault code 50 Valve coils. Measured resistance on my front struts and the ground wire on the front right strut was showing abnormal resistance.