hier noch ein bischen mehr, was ich ueber die Jahre so gefunden hatte, evtl. hilft es ja einem
http://www.ow.no/index.php?option=co...d=59&Itemid=13
http://e32b12.blogspot.com/2013/11/c...when_5202.html
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750 lock sensor 3 pins compressor vs 1 pins compressor - Johan in 2013:
As the pump in my 750 seems to leak uv dye around the compressor seal I got myself a new one. Later I saw the new one has only 1 connection in the electrical plug and thus missing the speed signal. And ofcourse no where to mount it so I can't transplant is. So I did some schematics checking and came up with the following:
There are two types of lock sensors. The first one was used with the R12 upto 09/91. The second after that with R134a. As these have different plugs they don't "officially" interchange.
The part numbers of the old/R12 one in order they appeared:
61 35 1 382 833
61 35 1 388 718
61 35 1 390 899
The part numbers of the new/R134a one in order they appeared:
61 35 1 392 410
61 35 8 360 039
The pin-out of the first type (two connectors):
x80-1 -- BL - to compressor rpm sensor
x80-2 -- BL/BR - to compressor rpm sensor
x80-3 -- SW/RT/GE - 12v from compressor relay
x77-1 -- SW/GR - To compressor clutch
x77-2 -- GN/BL/GE - 12v in Run/Start Fuse 29
x77-3 -- BR/SW - ground
x77-4 -- SW - to DME, EML,..etc. engine rpm
The pin-out of the second type (one connector):
x9988-2 -- BR/SW - Ground
x9988-3 -- SW/RT/GE - 12v from compressor relay
x9988-4 -- GN/BL/GE - 12v Run/Start Fuse 29
x9988-5 -- SW/GR - to compressor clutch
x9988-7 -- BR/GE - tap on cluster (x16-24) engine temp sensor
x9988-9 -- BR/VI - tap on cluster (x16-26) engine temp sensor
x9988-10 - SW - DME, EML, cluster,..etc. engine rpm
According to the ETK I need a new lock sensor 61 35 8 360 039 and an adapter wiring set 64 52 8 391 881. My guess is that the adapter wiring set goes between the car and the new lock sensor.
But as the compressor cost enough and I recently had the chance to pick some parts off a 93 750i I am now the proud owner of a 61 35 1 392 410 lock sensor with loose some wires.
So my plan is to splice the new plug into the wiring of the car, leave the temperature wires alone thus enabling me to use the newer lock sensor which doesnt need the compressor speed signal. If this doesn't work I'll tap into the cluster temp sensor and then it's 100% identical to the 92 upwards model years ans must work.
It seems to me in theory there are two other ways to bypass the old lock sensor:
1) Wire the input 12v from the compressor relay to the output to the compressor clutch thus bypassing the sensor
2) Also cut the x77-4 black wire so the lock sensor reads the compressor speed as 0 (as there is no speed sensor) and the rpm as zero (engine not running). This could fool the unit as it matches to two signals and disengages when the speed difference is 30% or more.
-->Both methods disable functioning of the sensor completely so use at own risk!
I found some postings on the net from Shogun and Hitmax which pointed me in the right direction. But as I collected all the part numbers and pinouts I though I'd share it just the same.
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http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/792377/
E32FAN auf Bimmerforums schrieb: Details are on pg 6450-22 & 23 at
http://www.e38.org/e32/e32_88_etm.pdf
I would open the A26 Lock Sensor Control Unit and solder a jumper wire across the Normally Open relay contacts. This will short X80 pin 3 to X77 pin 1 (shorting SW/RT/GE to SW/GR).
If there are no pulses from the reed relay in the compressor (because the new compressor has no reed relay) then A26 will de-energize its relay, but we won't care because the contacts are now shorted.
This will allow the compressor to run whenever K19 is energized and the pressure switches B7 and B8 are closed (just as in 735iL)
In later years, A26 was modified. The connector became X9968 which is not documented in the connector Views 8500. See 6450-22 at
http://www.e38.org/e32/e32_92_etm.pdf
I do not see any outputs from A26 that will bother EML, so I would not expect any problems from shorting the A26 relay. The SW/GR wire to EML is just the compressor run signal to inform EML that there is a compressor load.
This diagram shows where the Jumper needs to be soldered. If you remove the module cover and plug it into the sockets, you can trace the BLK/RED/YEL and BLK/GRY wires and see that they lead to the relay contacts.
https://ibb.co/Z6y5GtD
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/885452/
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...or-delete-info
DIY: How to modify AC Lock Sensor for single wire compressors by cartoonz, posted in the E31 forum (for the M70)
Seems that all replacement R134 AC compressors these days seem to only have a single wire to the plug, rather than the 3 wires on the original. Plug is the same, but the compressor side just has the clutch activation wire.
So you bought a new AC compressor, charged up the system, and were mortified that the AC doesn't work anymore.
What to do? Fear not, the fix is simple (but kind of a pain in the butt to get to). This is what you have to do:
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Behind the speaker in the LH (Driver's) footwell, is the compressor Lock Sensor.
Remove hood release handle
Remove left speaker kick panel / plastic cover
Remove the speaker pod
There is a plastic box on the inside lower wall of the body cavity, held on by 2(?) nuts on sheet metal. Nuts are outside, towards where your feet would be. Remove those
Now you can reach down and fish the entire thing up and out of the hole.
Great, so now you have this weird box with too many wires in your hand, what to do?
You need to jumper 2 wires.
The wires you need are these:
pin #3 - Black/Red/Yellow
pin #5 - Black/Gray (there are TWO of them that go to the same pin, use either one)
Do NOT cut them out of the original circuit, but strip a bit of insulation off and jumper them together 3-5" before the connector (X77) to the box, tape up the splice & reinstall everything.
Now you can use a new R134 Denso/whatever single wire compressor -- and it will work just dandy
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"What is this voodoo?", "Why does this work?", & "What did those wires do?" are common questions.
The original design used a Hall-IC to send out a square wave pulse that the "lock sensor" in question could monitor. The reason for this was to ensure that if the AC compressor was locked up and not moving with the clutch engaged, the lock-sensor would disengage the clutch to protect the drive belt from eating itself. The lock-sensor also monitors engine coolant temp and cuts the compressor off at some high limit temp as well. There is also an engine speed comparison circuit that checks that the engine is running over a few hundred RPM's before engagement. Pretty smart & slick design really, but not very useful when all the reasonably priced replacement compressors eliminate the Hall-IC circuit. There is nothing reasonable we can do to "fool" the lock-sensor into thinking it actually sees a pulse, so no amount of trickery on the harness by the compressor will accomplish anything. We have to bypass the lock-sensor.
These wires are NOT either of the two now "extra" wires to the compressor from the car. The wires we are connecting together basically eliminate the relay in the sensor that control the compressor clutch protection scheme.
This will not negatively affect an actual 3 wire compressor either, but it will eliminate the lock-sensor all the same.
Now, since we have now bypassed that "safety circuit", we need to understand that if the compressor does freeze up, you could eat a belt. No way to avoid that anyway with a single wire compressor.
The compressor will also be oblivious to any engine overheating situation, although if you are really dependent on an AC compressor to tell you your engine is overheating, I'm not sure what to say.