Motorraum: M70 Ansauggeweihe+VDD neu abdichten-DIY lang

[Erich]

gerade neu auf meiner Seite, noch mir draft (Entwurf) gekennzeichnet, insgesamt 63 !!!!!! Seiten bebilderte Anleitung von George Fontes, der das fuer mich alles schoen dokumentiert hat und nun sollten keine Fragen mehr offen sein dazu.
 http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/fo..._Refurbish.pdf
Enthaelt auch Infos, wo welcher Stecker hinkommt von den Kurbelwellensensoren und vieles mehr

Herzlichen Dank an George, er hat noch weiteres in petto fuer mich.

EINE BITTE: bitte keine Bilder oder aehnliches von meiner Seite hotlinken, sondern runterladen

[McTube]

Wie schön dass ich das schon hinter mir habe

Super Anleitung Erich, 2 Dinge habe ich anders gemacht:

- Zum lösen der Ansaugbrückenmuttern im V-Raum habe ich einen langen 10er T-Griff Steckschlüssel benutzt. Besser als mit wackelnden Verlängerungen herumhantieren. Da ich keinen Magneten hatte habe ich Kupplungsfett benutzt. Es ist keine Mutter gefallen.

- Zum Abdichten habe ich Dirko von Elring benutzt, schien mir besser als Hylomar.  http://www.elring.de/tsi/2007_TSI16_de.pdf

Den Hinweis darauf gleich andere Arbeiten gründlich vorzuplanen und mitzuerledigen weil man grad drankommt kann man gar nicht gross genug schreiben

Grüsse

Michael

[Erich]

Auch noch ein Hinweis, Batteriekabel vorher loesen, bevor mal anfaengt.

[Sieb-bach7]

Zitat von Erich

Auch noch ein Hinweis, Batteriekabel vorher loesen, bevor mal anfaengt.

Hallo Erich , erst mal Hochachtung für den Bericht.
Aber wäre es möglich die Erklährungen in Deutsch zu Übersetzen . Dürfte doch für Dich kein Proplem sein. Ich habe das ganze bei mir schongemacht, aber wäre mal intressant zu lesen was Du an Ratschläge uns bietest.

[Erich]

ganz einfach, dieses kopieren und in google translate, von Englsich in Sprache xy und schon ist es so ziemlich versandlich uebersetzt:

Intake Manifold Gasket & Valve Cover Gasket refurbish
Car: 1991 BMW 750iL, mfg 4/91
Symptoms: Very bad oil leaks from the valve covers along with pentosin leaks from somewhere…
Rough idle when cold, spark plugs needed changing and most of the fuel & vapor lines were brittle and leaking from age and engine heat.
The following pages are picture intensive and serve as a detailed documentation of the processes I followed in trying to fix the issues as well as any pointers and lessons learned I picked up along the way.
Hopefully they can also serve as a valuable reminder of how to put things back together again .
In my opinion, if one was just interested in replacing the valve cover gaskets & resealing the intake manifolds, the job could easily be done on a Saturday, but if more is planned such as drilling the oil-spray bar banjo bolts, safety wiring, repainting valve covers, replacing plugs, replacing hoses, rebuilding
injectors, etc. one would be hard pressed to complete all these steps in a day. I was in no hurry and the job took a month of casual work weekends, plus I spent a bit more time than necessary on the cosmetic aspects of the work. (I also ended up rebuilding the hydraulic booster and replacing the master cylinder.)
Note: If you are planning to replace fuel and vapor hoses, it will make life easier to just cut them off during the disassembly stages and replace with new as you reassemble. I’ve included hose types & measured lengths at the end of this procedure.
This is a view of my engine bay before I began. If this is your car, take a good look, it may be awhile before it looks complete again.
Not knowing how long this would take plus the fact I can never remember the “before” details, I took a number of pictures around the engine bay to document general fuel line layout, cable & wire routing, connectors, etc.

Remove Noise Suppressor
Begin by removing the top cover/noise suppressor - give the four screws (two shown above) on the top a 1/4 turn and remove the suppressor. (Pull straight up).
This view shows the top cover/noise suppressor removed.
Initial Disassembly
This view shows a items requiring removal:
1. DK Motor/Throttle body
2. Fuel Pressure regulators/Fuel rails
3. Fuel Injector Wire Housing
4. MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor
5. Ignition coil (disconnect only)
6. Air Filter/covers
Note the vacuum lines from the pressure regulators - these most likely need to be replaced due to heat and age.

Left MAF and Airbox Removal
The right MAF (Mass Air Flow) electrical connector un-screwed and pulled off to the side. Next loosen all the hose clamps, (both sides of the MAF), unclip the air filter box cover and remove. The air filter should come out with it, if not remove it now.
Next remove the 10mm nut on the rubber mount, and work off the MAF, (rocking it left to right to break the seal.) Typically this rubber mount also
needs replacement, the old version is shown here.

Right
This view shows the left MAF & air filter cover removed. Note the breather hose has a check valve with elbow. This is also found on the right side as well. This connects into a hose from the PCV valve. To remove the breather elbow, pull straight up and it should slide out.

Left
DK connector detail.
To remove; the tab is pushed to the right. (yellow arrow) This has the effect of levering the connector out as you push. Both of these were very tight. If too hard, leave them until the throttle body/ DK assy is removed. Then you can grab the tabs on both sides simultaneously for better leverage.

Left photo shows the right breather hose, MAF & air box lid removed. I labeled the vacuum hose for later ID/replacement. The photo above also shows Qty 4, 10mm bolts from the throttle body to the intake manifold
already removed. DK Motor Connector Removal

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