Hi Henk, if really deadlocked the door pin pull version from inside does not work, as we all know.
The question came up here:
Relay Module mod (disable deadlocks)
From pin 4 on the black plug: one trace goes to the jumper wire and one trace goes to the component- the end that's under the pins. The jumper wire leads to, from what I can see, the relay directly above pin 4's post. Which trace do I cut?
The "component" is the resistor connected across the coil, as shown in the schematic (pg 5126-02)of the ETM. Its function is to dissipate the energy stored in the coil, when the coil is turned off.
We want to cut the trace to the coil, so it can never again pull the contacts in. Cutting the trace to the resistor is optional - it will make no difference.
Here's the acid test: Connect 12V across pins 4 and 15 of the BLK connector X258 and see that Relay #10 snaps in. Then cut your trace(s) and see that the relay does not operate. Mission accomplished!
stevebu did it so with the advise of E32Fan and it works.
E32Fan commented on this a similar case:
Deadlocks
.... can share some experience with Deadlocking.
Print page 5126-02 to 04 at
http://www.e38.org/e32/e32_88_etm.pdf
Notice that there are 2 motors inside the 4 Door Lock Motors M12 - 14, and only 1 motor inside the trunk and fuel flap lock motors M16 and M17.
The extra motor, driven by the BLK wire at pin 1 of the lock motor connectors, is the actual Deadlock function. It sets a pawl that prevents the other motor from unlocking the door. It is supposed to be Deadlocked by the alarm system, and then Deadlock-Released 30 minutes later, or when a key-holder unlocks the passenger door.
It is a beastly thing. I recommend cutting the pin 1 BLK wires, so the Deadlock can never trigger again.
Perhaps your rear door locks got a Deadlock pulse, and never received a Deadlock-Release pulse. This is strange because all 4 door motors share the same BLK Deadlock wire. Of course the front doors are privileged because they have key locks, which the rear doors lack. Perhaps the Battery was weak when the last Deadlock-Release pulse was sent, and the rear doors did not fully execute this command.
I will do some experiments tomorrow and post my findings. I'm certain that you can send your own Deadlock-Release signal.
Since electricity caused the problem, it would be nice if electricity could fix it!
Here's what to do: Move the driver's seat fully forward so as to expose the B pillar trim. Remove this trim and locate the loom of wires that runs to the rear of the door connector X273. See pg 7100-12 Fig 2 and pg 8500-07 for the X273 pin positions.
In the loom there are 3 wires of the same diameter - BLU, WHT, BLK. Locate the BLK wire that goes to pin 11 of X273 and cut it a few inches from X273. Tape up the cut BLK wire that disappears under the floor. Strip off a bit of insulation from the cut BLK wire that goes to X273.
Now you will need a 12V source - a booster battery pack, or a battery charger, say. Measure the voltage across its leads to be sure that 12V is available - some chargers will not produce any voltage until they sense that a battery is connected with the proper polarity. You could even use jumpers from another car, but be certain the two chassis do not touch! You cannot use your own car's battery, because we need -12V rather than +12V.
Connect the POS battery lead to the car's chassis anywhere you can find bare metal. Now briefly touch the NEG battery wire to the bare BLK wire. This will Release the Deadlock pawl and you should be able to open the left rear door in the usual ways.
Tape up the BLK wire (Do NOT splice the 2 BLK wires back together!) and replace the B pillar trim.
Repeat this job for X274 in the passenger side B pillar.
BTW this works because the RM is grounding all 3 of the central locking motor wires - BLK, BLU, WHT. The BLK wire is not our friend. It's only function is to cause us woe.
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My lock problem a few years ago was the motor burnt out inside the lock actuator assembly. On the front two doors the actuator assembly contains two DC motors each, not solenoids. Six electrical input/outputs. One motor pushes and pulls the output pole whereas another motor deadlocks the output mechanism. The motor that burnt in mine was the first motor.
The 12V motor can be matched by some DC motors online for $1.50. However, the black plastic housing was glued and you'd need to for example cut with a dremel disc carefully to open at the seam line, just so you can glue the assembly back nicely when motor is replaced. Nonetheless, I believe a lot of tapes on the outside to keep the housing from separating will be necessary.
You can also replace the whole housing with some no-name lock actuator with single motor, which cost less than $15. The problem is there is an output sense signal for the deadlock motor position. So if you use the two-wire no-name lock actuator, and a deadlock command is issued, the GM module will be unhappy...still it can be done to save some money, and just don't use the deadlock feature.
Patrick C 88 750 172K
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Stuck Door Locks On A BMW e32 ≠ Fun
davintosh Stuck Door Locks On A BMW e32 ≠ Fun
If nothing at all helps, do it the way as Johan did:
BMW E32 Deadlocked Door
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Rear door Deadlock
Linear-Darstellung
