Karosserie Rear door Deadlock

Beumers · 01.03.2013, 21:57

Hi Erich.
Succes. I'm in. I removed the doorseal of the other reardoor to study it. I realy didn't think it was possible without demage but once I had the doorseals out of the way there was just enough room to undo the doorpanel. I tried to make a tool for it but that didn't work. From the inside of the car it is difficult. Impossible if you don't want to demage things. Credits for Johan who pulled this of. But once the upper clambs are loose, with the window down and working from the outside of the car, it is possible to loosen all the white clambs through the gap. I used a long 60cm screwdriver and a aluminum crowbar. A long piece of wood would also had been a good tool. With all the clambs loose it was possible to lift the doorpanel. The actuator who's responsible for this mess is fitted with 2 screws and after I had it removed I could unlock and open the door. No demage. Not a scratch. One broken white clamb.
Tomorrow I will go on and try to find the problem. Maybe the lock mechanism is responsible. But in any case I will undo the black wire in the connector in the B-pillar, so this will not happen again.
It was difficult to make good photo's. Not enough light and not the right camera for the job. Maybe I'll make an article of it with drawings.
Henk.

Beumers · 02.03.2013, 20:13

Hi Erich.
For some reason I couldn't get the lock mechanism out. I wanted to clean and regrease it. So there is little progres. For the time being I drive without the doorpanels so I can go on without timeloss if I find time to work on it.
I'm puzzled because I can't realy see how there are 2 motors in the housing of the actuator but I find out.
Henk.

Beumers · 03.03.2013, 13:01

Hello Erich.
With the actuator out and on the table. I supplied 6 volts to the contacts and everything works. Upper 3 contacts are in use. Left is white, richt is black and lower middle is blue. So there are 2 possible causes. Inside actuator there is enough wear to sometimes deadlock the deadlock itself. Or there is so much resistense in the mechanical system by dry grease and/or wear the motors aren't strong enough although this makes no sense, because the deadlock mechanism is insite the housing of the actuator.
Patrick C 88 750 172K mentioned the replacement of a faulty motor by cutting open the housing but if the mechanism inside is worn that makes no sense.
I'll try a few things. In the meantime I keep the doorpanels in my boot so it's easy to open the door in case of a new deadlock situation.
Henk.

Erich · 03.03.2013, 13:18

this might help you, item 10 ZKE Details

ZKE

Beumers · 03.03.2013, 13:58

Hi Erich.
Interesting. There are a few things that I can check. It's very reasuring to know there is a electronic safety that resets itself. It that fales there is a fuse that will blow. So in my case everything is in full working order. Otherwise the fuse should have been blown, but it isn't. So a dry grease resistance caused by cold and lack of service is the most likely cause of the deadlock in my car. This is also mentioned in the Heanes manual.
I just found out how to remove the doorlock mechanism of the reardoor in the Heanes manual. It's strange though thal all the Photo's are different from my door and also the position of the actuator is different so I have to see if their discription works. The discription on Sean&Johan's site is also not right on that matter so there must be differenses during the years. Oh well. I'll see.
Thanks Henk.

Setech · 03.03.2013, 21:32

You will find the same actuators on any place in the E32. You can easily substitute the actuators and check.
My hint is to check behind the pillars cables. May one cable is broken.

Beumers · 04.03.2013, 10:26

Hi Setech.
Can be a good idea to exchange the actuators. I already checked the wiring in the Bpillar because there is a connector x273. I tried to unlock the deadlock trough that connector but at that time it did not work. I have to see if I can get the actuator to work in the car the same way I did when I had it disconnected and out of the car with even a 6v battery. I need some time to do that. I just discovered a leak in the cooling system so I have to give that my attention first. Most likely a leak in the radiator.
Keep you posted.
Henk.

Beumers · 14.03.2013, 10:05

Hi all.
Everything still works. Didn't had mutch time to work on the car. Must have been a one time event caused by the could. Strange thing though is, in my atempt to clean and grease the lock mechanism I wasn't able to get it out. I removed the 3 torc scews, no movement. I loosent the window mechanism, no movement. Some how it's stuck. For the moment I lubricated the lock as well as possible.

Henk.