Habt Ihr denn die Schrauben im Schiebedach geloest? Hier ein paar Bilder von meinem Kollegen von vor ca 20 Jahren, wo wir das mal an seinem Highline gemacht haben, evtl. helfen die
http://infinitier.ddo.jp/e32/page/ma...inte_50812.htm
Japanischer Text auf English automatisch uebersetzt
Remove the front, rear, left, and right boarding support handles on the roof. Please put all these parts, including the screws, in one box so that you don't lose them.
Remove the front sun visor and remove the vanity light, map lamp, rearview mirror, etc.
Each part has an electrical connector, so please remove all of them at that time.It is better to protect each terminal in order to prevent danger such as short circuit. If you remove the battery, it will interfere with the operation of the sunroof, etc., so I think it's better to leave it as it is, because it can suddenly rain at this time of year
Remove the decorative panel on the B pillar. In order, remove the step panel under the door, then remove the bottom of the B pillar, and finally the upper decorative panel.
Once you get to this point, you won't be able to turn back (laughs). Let's give up and move forward.
Rail clips must be removed for vehicles with a sunroof.
Most of the clips can be easily removed by prying them with a flathead screwdriver or the like, but there is only one place on the rail where a screwdriver cannot be inserted, and there are 5 clips in the sunroof storage that cannot be removed without an L-shaped flathead screwdriver. It is safer to check the tool that fits.
It is a hidden clip part of the rail part, it is impossible without removing the rail here.
The rail screws are anti-loosening Torx screws.
If there is no rail, it can be easily accessed, so pry it off as well.
The sunroof slide is driven by a twisted wire with a brush. Two pipes extend from the drive motor to the left and right.
Vehicles with a sunroof naturally have a large hole in the roof, but as you can see, the sunroof unit itself is made of die-cast aluminum and is not half-baked reinforcement.
Of course, you don't have to worry about it rusting.
I've heard that the sunroof of the 5 series leaked due to clogged drainage ducts, but as you can see, the ducts of the E32 are quite thick and are arranged in four places on the front, back, left and right, so there seems to be no need to worry.
The hose is in good condition with no visible damage.
This is the clip part at the top of the rear window, here there are three clips in the middle and left and right
Vibration-absorbing materials are placed on the sides to prevent rattling and squeaky sounds.
Interestingly, the clip on the roof side is a sliding type, and it is possible to make subtle position adjustments (the previous model did not have a slide).
Many owners seem to have a hard time getting the roof out of the car, but the long model can be pulled out very easily once the front passenger seat is down. The Take-go is Hi-Line and there are quite a lot of obstacles between the rear seats and the front seats, but there was no problem.
Clips are attached to various parts of the roof to make it easier to attach electrical equipment, so carefully remove them.
Since the position is quite important when reattaching it later, please take a picture with a digital camera or the like.
The center stay is firmly attached, but it can be easily removed by prying the main part. However, when working with only one, please remember the direction
When the cloth is removed, the original sponge remains, so use a brush with long bristles to remove it. It is quite sticky and not very pleasant.
Shogun, who is helping out, is also repairing his own car, but there is no sponge in the Take-go liner? I'm working while tilting my head.
With a sudden scream, Shogun shouted that this base is also a sponge
In the image above, what I thought was peeled off wasn't the sponge. If my roof and the type are different, Shogun is in a state of folding his arms.
You will need a scraper to remove this.
Even with this, it seems that it is much easier to peel off than the roof of the previous model. It used to take three people all night.
It seems that the groundwork is a yellow panel in the first half, and it is a white panel made of glass fiber in the second half.
As you can see, 80% of the center part is easy enough to peel off by hand.
In the climate of Japan, it would be difficult to dry it sufficiently, but if possible, it would be easier to work.
Unlike the center, the periphery cannot be scraped off with a scraper. It is a concentrated attack by attaching an iron brush to a sander or drill.
After 2-3 hours of this, the capillaries in both hands were broken by the vibration of the drill, causing internal bleeding from the wrists down to the point where I felt like I had rubella or measles. When I touched the back of my hand, it felt like I had been pricked with a needle
I don't have a picture of the back of the roof, but there are some reinforcing rails and there are fixed claws on them. If you apply too much force here, the entire base will be scraped off, so use it sparingly.
A beautiful roof with only the base, I will apply adhesive here.
Match the liner and measure the outer dimensions and cut.
Here is a picture of the liner I used, the thickness is 1/8 inch and about 4mm thick. Liners for US cars are sold at Headliner.com, but they are 1/4 inch and nearly 7mm thick, and there seems to be various problems with fitting.
This is the adhesive used. I received a reply from 3M that it was almost the same as the one used at the time of manufacture, and obtained the specified product.
There is a sponge on the back of the liner, so be careful not to use the wrong one as it will melt. (It seems that the smell is not very strong, but it smells pretty good)
It is attached from the middle to the back. Actually, when I treated the previous panel, the material was different and a small amount of solvent was enough, but this time the glass fiber base could not be pasted because the solvent of the adhesive was not enough and it could only be attached to the back.
The next morning, I went to Joyful Honda and purchased an adhesive material with a similar specification and resumed work.
The work progresses with the new adhesive, and the replacement is completed. The solvent dries quickly, so it can be applied immediately.
After 10 minutes, we will start drilling, and we will make cuts at the necessary points. The screw holes are burnt out with a soldering iron, and the material is flame-retardant and does not burn.
Apply the backing to the hole so that it does not come off
done. After that, if you stick the turn of the corner and cut it, it will be completed.
The genuine material has a 4mm thick backing sponge, which gives it a unique feel. Ordinary fabrics can be used, but fabrics that do not burn in fires caused by electrical short circuits are still safe.
When I was wearing it, I was immersed in the work and forgot to shoot.
The material is highly stretchable and has a sponge back, so I was able to handle such a curved part beautifully.
The rear seat finally has a living space suitable for a VIP (laughs), and even if I'm 182 tall, I don't feel any pressure. In particular, the rear roof part was originally dug deep as shown in the image, so this space has finally been revived.
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