Sie sind nicht angemeldet! Jetzt kostenlos im Forum registrieren, weniger Werbung sehen, aktiv teilnehmen und weitere Vorteile nutzen! Diese Website nutzt Cookies. Bitte beachten Sie unsere Datenschutzerklärung.
Hi all.
I studied all the topic's about problems with the IHKA system.
I came to the conclusion the watervalves had to be part of the problem. So I got them out of the car and disassembled the watervalves. I've seen pictures of the inside parts of different types of watervalves, so I was very puzzeled when I saw completely different inner parts. See attached pic's. Anyones know's this type of valves? And if so is there a repairset available that anyone knows of?
I seen these new types of valves on AliExpres for arond 50,-.(picture)
Makes more sense to buy a new pair of valves. They fit a E34 so they should fit my 1986 E32 as well.
Regards Henk.
No need to reply in English.
Das ist die alte, Ventilausfuehrung 64111388619, sehr teuer, wo der Anschluss fuer den Stecker oben ist, auch eingesetzt bei Fahrzeugen mit Standheizung http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/wate...tervalves.html
die neueren, billigeren Ventile haben den Anschluss seitlich, auch die Anschluesse sind etwas anders und Du wirst bei Tausch auf eine neue Version evtl. noch einen anderen Schlauch brauchen.
Fuer die alte Version gibt es Reparatursaetze von BMW = Ventileinsatz 64118390132, kosten allerdings ueber 100 EURO. http://de.bmwfans.info/parts-catalog...ose/#8390132_6
Bei den Ventilen aus China sollte man vorsichtig sein, sind sehr billig, aber hier ein Fall kopiert aus 2016 aus U.K., da hat sich ein Stutzen nach einer Woche geloest und es gab eine grosse Leckage. Ob das nun ein Einzelfall war oder generell ein Qualitaetsproblem, kann ich nicht beurteilen:
I have ordered and received the aftermarket heater valve. The heater valve is most interesting, if I did not know better I would say the mouldings came from original tooling. My old valve has part numbers moulded in in 2 places. The aftermarket has the same numbers moulded in the same places. All things considered it looks a nice unit and much better than i expected, plus it fits perfectly. The moulded numbers whilst the same, are raised more on the new part than the old, but then my original could well have been produced on worn tooling. Even the same type face has been used, so somebody has gone to a lot of trouble. Finished fitting everything back this afternoon and did a 25 mile run in the car, the heater valve/pump seems to work fine, certainly it was controlling the temp up and down as requested. In terms of how good valve is, my initial reaction is very positive, but of course it really depends on how good it is in a few years time.
1 Woche spaeter: Last Sunday afternoon I drove along to local supermarket where it was pointed out to me that liquid was pouring out of the car and visible from the nearside. After adding water and driving gently home I ended up taking my new heater valve out only to find that the 2 outlets to the heater were loose, in fact one fell out in my hand. So I take it all back, they look good but clearly there is a tolerance issue as they are supposed to be an interference fit in the main body with an o ring providing the seal. Not sure if I have been unlucky or not, but glad I did not embark on any long journeys. My fix Sunday pm was to split both original and new valves and put the new solenoid/seals/shutoff valve onto the original BMW body. I have not had chance to do more than a few miles, but it is currently ok. When time allows I will get my local garage to pressure test system. So to anyone else who might be considering buying one of these, I would be a little careful. It is the two outlets. They are an interference fit onto the main body with an O ring to provide the seal. The aftermarket ones are not a strong enough interference fit, they could probably be made to work by using epoxy and gluing them in though, however I think my 'fix' using the original old BMW body and the aftermarket seals/valves is probably more than adequate.
--------------
Hi Erich.
Thanks for your quick reply. Very clear what the alternatives are. The valves from AliExpress are interesting because I can find out if the problem I keep having is solved by replacing the valves without spending alot of money only to see that the problem is still there. One of the rubber fittings are very worn but still intact. Maybe they leeked a little and if that is the case then my problem is not solved. I have to find out if it's worthwhile to spend the money and the time on a car that seems to have more issues than I'm prepared to handle. Besides that the Dutch government keep making it less attractive to own an youngtimer. If you live in the city without having anought space to put your car to rest for a while you end up paying lots of money.
Thanks again. If I'm going to use the cheap valves I let you know what happens and if I'm more lucky than the US guy.
Regards Henk.
By the way.
Also my waterpump suffered from old age. There is now way the thing is going to work ever again. In my search to find a replacement I came across this add on Ebay. It seems like the same pump. Maybe one have to alter the connector but it seems to be the same thing.
Then I leared the waterpump is not realy nessesarry for the heater system to function so I stopt looking.
Regards Henk.
The secondary water pump is only avaialable at BMW or aftermarket from Hella.
It has the Hella part number 8TW 005 755-701
It is little cheaper then the original BMW pump.
System ist working without the pump, yes. But the heating power will be reduced especially at lower rpm.
Regarding the heater valves: Did you already check if you have +12V on the valves? Nearly everybody overlooks this issues since it is a issues coming from the controlelement in the center console and not from the contrul-unit itself.
You can completely delete the aux water pump, the only disadvantage is that the flow of hot coolant to the heater core is fluctuating depending on the RPM of the engine water pump, so temperature with low RPM at idle and stop and go does down a bit.
The original pump makes 950 liters per hour.
You can also use a different pump like the one you show for Volkswagen and Audi, which is cheaper from the aftermarket, as long as the feed and discharge connections are same size as the original pump and the pump dimensions are similar to fit to the hose length. And you have to make some modifications to the pump bracket and the wire connection/plug. Also the capacity of these aftermarket or even Bosch pumps for VW is much lower than the Hella pump, if I remember right, it is about 250 l/h. But in general it will work.
Hi Erich and Marcus.
To check if there is any current comming out of the connector on the valves I have to measure this in my car which at the moment is put aside for 3 month due to regulations in Holland for Youngtimers. But it's something I have to do I know. It's easy to forget to check if there is 12 v. at the connector. It could mean the control module has some issues. That's why I'm not keen on buying expensive parts if I can't find the real source of the problem. I own this car for over 5 years and looking back on it the electrical system is a disaster. There are so manny issues. It's very hard to see the connention between them but that's my problem.
The pump has to wait before I spend money on it. There is more than enough heat so if there is a little bit less that's fine with me. First things first.
I'll check asap if there is current in the car. If 12v is at the connector can I rule out the Control module? If there isn't any 12 v. what in your opinion is the best next step I take.
Thanks for your input.
Henk.
In der Anleitung sind aber auch ein paar grobe Fehler drin und es ist wenig detailreich.
Wer kann die denn überarbeiten?
Erster Fehler:
Zitat:
Heizung wird nicht kalt:
- Heizventile defekt (elektrisch oder mechanisch)
Stimmt so nicht, da auch die Ansteuerung defekt sein und das HV vollkommen intakt ist. Siehe Punkt 12V Versorgung. Fehlt diese, ist die Heizung auch dauerhaft warm (Ventile sind stromlos offen)
Zweiter Fehler:
Zitat:
Bei eingeschalteter Zündung und Klima liegt am PIN 1 am STECKER 12 Volt an.
Klima muss nicht an sein (erstens) und das fahrerseitige Temp-Rad darf nicht auf warm eingerastet sein (zweitens). Beide Infos fehlen bzw. sind unsauber.
Und das Thema mit dem einrasten ist genau eines der typischsten Fehlerbilder. Da ist ein Schalter verbaut, der beim Einrasten schaltet und so den Strom wegnimmt und damit die HV stromlos schaltet. Damit findet die Notfunktion heizen statt.
Sobald man aus der Rastung raus geht macht der Schalter zu und gibt 12V auf die HV. Damit findet wieder eine Regulierung statt.
Leider ist genau der Schalter defekt! Obwohl man aus der Rastung ist, macht der Schalter nicht auf und die Heizung bleibt warm.
In der Anleitung sind aber auch ein paar grobe Fehler drin und es ist wenig detailreich.Wer kann die denn überarbeiten?
Markus
Kannst Salzpuckel = E32-Schrauber anschreiben mit Vorschlag Aenderungen, email steht auf der Hauptseite http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/
Hier im Forum ist er nicht mehr oft anzutreffen, da er keinen E32 mehr hat