Central lock system failure.

[Beumers]

Hi all. It's been a while.
My car. e32 dec.1986 735i.
Hope you can help me with a problem in the central lock system.
I don't realy remember doing something to trigger this.
After not having used the car for maybe a week I tried to open the driver door and it would not open. Because of alot of battery isues in the past I thought something drained the battery. So I tried to open the passenger door by lifting the handle and turn the key over a point of friction but it would not work. I didn't got the door unlocked. Somehow I wasn't able to get over that point of friction. Frustrated I opened it the old school way. They are so easy to break in to.
So it was open. I opened the hood and wired it with a spare battery. No go. It would not open with the key and strange enough the pasenger door locked itself when I closed it. So I got in a second time and when I got the key in the ignition I noticed that all the noises were there. the dashlights went on and when I turned the key it ran the engine. The battery wasn't flat at all.
But I still was'nt able to close and open the car like I always did. But after this the passenger door opens again with no problem using the method of lifting the handle and than turn the key over that point of friction.
I tried to find out by reading the manual, using several keys and the internet with no luck.
For now I can enter my car but I have to find out what is causing this behaviour.
Hope you can help me with this.

[Erich]

Looks like you have several problems, 1 is the battery power and the other the locking.
Have you checked both fusible links?
 http://twrite.org/shogunnew/files/E3...s_compiled.pdf
 http://www.ow.no/index.php?option=co...&g2_itemId=140
also check in front of passenger rear seat if the battery ground cable has good contact, it is under a plastic cap
 http://www.ow.no/gallery2/main.php?g...serialNumber=2
same with ground cable of the engine to chassis in engine bay.

Try to resync the doorlocks:
Unlocking procedure:
1. Insert the master key into the front right door.
2. Pull up the door handle.
3. Turn the key counterclockwise to emergency unlock position 1.
4. Open the door.
5. Close doors and turn the right front door lock to the synchronize position 5.
 http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm

Deadlocked Driver's Door
there are 2 motors inside each of the four door lock actuators. One motor locks and unlocks the door, and the second motor sets and releases the deadlock.

You want to operate the deadlock motors, to release them. Open the 3 doors (for safety!) and lift the rear seat. Remove the RM module from its sockets.

Locate pins 1 and 14 on the BLK socket connector (X258), and insert a finishing nail into each of these 2 contacts. Pin locations in X258 are shown on pg 8500-05 of the ETM.

Now use a 12V booster pack and briefly (1 second) connect NEG to pin 14 and POS to pin 1. You will hear the deadlock motor operate in the drivers door, releasing the deadlock. Now you can open the drivers door as normal.

Wiring shown on pg 5126-02 and 03. Again, leave the 3 doors open while you are doing this, for safety!

To prevent any future deadlocking, cut off pin 14 of the RM.
 https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=deadlock

[Beumers]

Oké. succes. Thank you so much.
I tried the procedure with the passengerdoor lock with no luck. Not surpriced because I tried it several times yesterday.
Then I opened all doors by pulling up the puchrods on de door. Then I removed the seat in the back to check the fuse as the next step. Somehow I must have triggered something because behind the driversseat, where all the big orange relais are clustered there was a tikking, clikking sound as if a timer was counting back. Before I could have made out where this sound exactly came from, it stopped. Got the seat out. Closed all doors and tried to close and open as normal and it worked. Don't know why. But it's fixed for now.
This car is getting to me. It draines all the fun of owning a young timer aside from the government tax rules. I will put the parts of the heating system back in place and than try to sell it before something else get's broke.
Apart from a NSU, a DS and a Peugeot, I drove BMW's for almost my entire driving live. From the early 5 series to the e23 and this is my second e32. Don't get me wrong. I loved driving them all. Also this last one.
But as mentioned before, the government rules "forced" me to buy a second car. A little 20 years old Toyota with a lot of space and it runs and it runs and it runs.
Drove alot of km's but not anymore. This Toyota will do just fine.

Thanks all. Again. Regards Henk.