Ja, die EML Module brauchen eine Ueberholung, sind wohl wie meistens auch die Elkos/capacitors etc. Wenn Du es selber versuchen willst, hier eine englische Info aus BF E31 forum:
I'd look at his EML I finally got around to it. He reported the throttle plates were acting funny and one bank wasn't running. There was no obvious damage, but one of the aluminum electrolytic caps didn't look great. We decided to proceed and replace the capacitors.
There were a few general purpose caps in there, but there were also a few 'special' ones, including a Tantalum capacitor, a Philips aluminum can, a Fraco 100uF 10V, and some Roederstein EK sealed/baked capacitors commonly used in the Audio industry.
(There is also about 50 ceramic capacitors and about 100 early surface mount resistors in there too!). I replaced 8 capacitors altogether, cleaned and coated the board, and dropped it in my 1991 850i. It started right up and I took it out for a spin. Everything seems to work fine, cruise, idle, etc. I didn't do any kind of programming or throttle calibration, just took it for a spin. Upon return, I measured the resistance of the old capacitors, (the meter in front of me doesn't measure capacitance) and most floated up to 6M-ohm, except the Fraco, which measured a short circuit, 0.1ohm, perhaps it was the problem?
I replaced most with Panasonic FC series, which were 105C operating temp and low impedance. Interestingly, capacitors have changed enough in 25 years that many were actually smaller that the originals, though no heroic measures needed to be made.
Capacitors Used:
2x Generic 220uF 63V 105C (Replaced with Panasonic FC Series, Newark #49W7101, $0.585/ea)
2x Generic 100uF 25V 105C (Replaced with Panasonic FC Series, Newark #96K9155 $0.147/ea)
ROE 220uF 40V (Popular on Audio forums, Replaced with Panasonic FC Series,220uF 50V, Newark #49W7044 $1.03/ea)
Fraco 1000uF 10V (Replaced with Panasonic FC Series, Newark #25M9148 $0.73/ea)
(EDIT/NOTE: In my diagram lower-right, I labeled the Fraco one 100uF when it's actually a 1000uF; Thanks for noticing Albert850i!)
Philips 220uF 10V Low ESR 105C (Replaced with Panasonic 220uF 16V, OS-CON Series, Low ESR, 0.013ohm, Newark #98W0174 $1.23/ea)
Unknown 200uF 10V Tantalum (Replaced with Vishay 100uF 10V, 150D Series, Axial, Newark #65F2330 $4.57/ea, I also had ordered a KEMET Tantalum #70K8848 @$4.00/ea)
Disclosure: I don't know what's so special about the ROE or Fraco capacitors, but I used pretty decent Panasonic caps that I hope are suitable quality. I also used them in place of the generic caps which is probably overkill.
Also, The Tantalum cap I used is rated 2000hrs@85C and derated to 1000Hrs@125C. The higher temp mil-spec ones were $5-6/ea, out of stock, and had 20pc minimum. Regardless, Assuming 60MPH, that's 120K miles if the capacitor is operating near boiling temperatures. In short, some of these capacitors might not last another 25 years, but should last at least 10!
ALSO NOTE: This was a 0 205 000 004 EML presumably from an Early model 850i. I swapped out my 0 205 000 015 EML with it and it worked fine, but other EMLs may have different parts!
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Originally Posted by Albert850i
Managed to open it, by releasing the locks at both ends and opening the two wide black tabs which keep the sub-connector in position.
I have soldered in 8 new caps, but do not have a tool to check the old ones. Ohm meter shows climbing resistance, probably as the caps are being charged; possibly they were all still OK. Note that your sketch shows a 100 uF - 10V cap on the right hand board, which should be 1000 uF - 10 V.
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Thanks for noticing that. Ohm meter climbing is correct for a capacitor.. the time it takes to go open-circuit is proportional to the capacitance, but without a capacitance meter, tough to get an exact figure. If they don't end up open-circuit (or at least in the meg-ohm range), it might indicate a problem. In my case, one of the capacitors was simply shorted after removal. There's tons of other things that could have failed in the EML. look for discoloration or any evidence of excessive heat. Might have a bad transistor or two. If it had a specific problem, like an input or output not working as expected, one could reverse engineer the pinout, trace back to the components, but ultimately that's a shit-job without a schematic and a test mode. If it's simply Dead, your option is to run down the input power sections, but any kind of board-level troubleshooting approaches diminished returns quickly.
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Bei weiteren Fragen kannste ja da direkt fragen in dem Thread, Du bist ja da angemeldet , der EEDegreeToDrive ist Elektr. Ing und software Ing.
https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...+module+repair