Heizung/Klima: Unknown type watervalve

[Erich]

Zitat von Beumers

The passenger side does not and the frontwindow vents are by no means controlable. They blow hot ait no matter what. This is not the behavour of a faulty switch if I understood everything correctly.
Henk.

Then also check the stepper motors which control the mixing flaps
 http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/ihka/ihka.html
For example if your remove the air outlet grill on the dash and then play a bit with the adjustment of airflow, you should see the flaps moving.
I had this problem some years back, that on driver side (in my case) there was only cold air coming. The problem was the clip of the stepper motor were not strong enough anymore, the stepper motor jumped out of position and then the metal rod fell out, we made a youtube here

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pCzWommF60A

I fixed that and all was working well again

[Beumers]

Hi Erich.
I've seen all these articles. When I bougth the car the passenger side was not working. The steppermotors in the youtube video were heavely damaged both torn out the housing. I fixed that and everything was normal. Last year I noticed the constant hot airflow from the frontwindow vents. I didn't had to mutch time and I've got a second car so I used the e32 not that mutch. Before I put it in storage in december, I checked those airflaps but the are still intact and working. The flaps in the youtube video that is. The other 2 flaps for the vents to the frontwindow are operated by only one steppermotor situated at the passengers footwell. But it's difficult to reach. The little I could see is that the motor is in it's place but it's to hard to see if it turns. My time was up anyway so I put the car in storage and tried to find out some info in the meantime. I started reading all the articles (again) on the 7er forum and asked questions. I've got a spare heaterbox with all the stepper motors so I know now were all the motors with their operating rods are and which vent they open. But the matter is much more complicated and the more I read the more confused I got.
But it starts to make more sense since I get answers to my questions and also studied the electrical schema's.
At least now I know my watervalves are old but in working order.
The waterpump I leave out the system for the moment.
There is no 12volt on pin 1 and I have to make sure the swich at the end of the right heater wheel on the control panel in the dash is working oké or not.
If no, I can fix that and go from there.
If yes I can go on and find why the defrost flaps are not closing. They are operated by the control unit behind the sword but the info is coming from different sensors.
I'm not out of the bush yet but I get the feeling I beginning to understand.
Since I checked all the fuses I can rull out fuse33.
That's where I am at the moment. I have to wait for a month before I can get the car out of storage. For now I keep reading and watching video's. What a hobby.
Regards Henk.

[Beumers]

Correction. The defrost motor is not on the right side but on the left and should be much easier to reach then the motor on the right which is the motor for Belüftung on the passenger side.

[Beumers]

Oké. the story goes on.
In order to find out why there is no 12 volts on pin1 I used the electrical wiring diagram the trace the wires of the pin1 to the rest of the system. In the diagram most wires go through connector x35 to the IHKA controlunit on the dash x693. Since the connectors under the dash have no number on them its hard to know if you are working with the actual connector x35. also there is no indication which of the pins in the connector is pin1, pin2 etc.
Is there a rule to know where you start counting the pins in a connector.
It's all very confusing also because the different diagrams have different wire colours. In the diagram the wire from pin1 to x35 is GR/BR. According to the colour-table it is gray/brown. My wire in the car is GREEN/BROWN. Also other wire colours differ from the diagram.The wiring diagram manual I use is from '87 model. Do they differ that mutch?
This way it's difficult to know for sure if the masuring is correct. It seems there is no connection between x35(10) and x693(2). Also there is no connection from x35(6) and x693(3). It should mean there is a problem with the wiringloom from x35 to the x693Controlunit on the dash but with the different wiring colours it's not a fact.

I replaced the control unit on the dash BEHR 94.203.41.002 (8-12-86) IHKA LL, with a BOSCH 9140 010 016 (no year) IHKA LL AUC. The buttons on the original BEHR one are very worn.
I noticed a very big difference at the inside. There are mutch more components and connections. How compatable are these units?

What I did to continue pinpoint the problem of the Heating.
To check if the 12 volts on pin1 would solve the problem I replaced the wire on pin1 with a new wire directly from a +12V source. Pins 2 and 3 are still on the same wires. There is no differce in the heating. On AUTO It continues to blow hot air from the defrost vents on the left side. Not on the right side. The dash vent is also hot on the left side and cold on the right side. When the swith for only footwell is pressed bouth sides work. The other swith for footwell and dash acts the same as the AUTO swith.
It seems there is little difference.

Greetings for now. Henk.

[Markus525iT]

The 12V come from the head unit/control unit.

The meaning behind this is, that the 12V are switched out when the driverside temperature contoller is put to warm ("locked up" at warm after the small resistance).
This is a kind of emergency switching - heating is still able when the rest is broken.

To realize this function there is a micro switch in the control unit and this often gets broken. This is a common issue at those parts (I have seen it on several E34 and E32 so far)

The 12V are located at this seperate 3 Pins connector

Markus

[Beumers]

Hi Markus.
I know. But the 12 volts from fuse 33 to connector x35 (under dash left) stops at that point. There is no continuety from x35 to the controlunit. Therefor the 12V can't reach pin1 on the connector at the watervalves.

So the whole system acts like when the switch on the temperature wheel is closed. Very hot air. I can only shut the hot air of when I put the fan wheel in the middle on 0. But than there is no fresh air anymore so the front window is going to get misty so you have to open the window.
Even if the left temperature wheel is on outmost cold position the fan starts to blow hot air.
I have to go from here.

Thanks for your reply.

Henk.

[Beumers]

Hi all.
In my ongoing search I took the controlunit, behind the sworth, out and checked it's condition. I must say it looks like it is brandnew but the sticker says 28-11-86. There are marks on the housing so somebody took it apart some time earlier.
On second look the 2 resistors near the white connector and it's surrounding backplate has been very hot. The green color of the backplate has turned into brown near the 4 connection points of the resistors. These 2 resistors are mentioned in other posts as a problem source.
The whole unit is coverred in a transparent protection layer and on the resistors its burned to a darkbrown so I can't see what type of resistors are mounted. Does anyone knows the resistortype?
I think it is wise to replace the resistors just to be sure I guess.
In other post I read It's wise to resolder the whole unit. Is there a way of removing the transparent layer other than by scraping it of with a knife?

Regards Henk Beumers.

[Erich]

Do you have a Behr or Siemens Heizschwert? Here the differences, in most cases Behr is used
 http://www.e32-schrauber.de/bmw/s-heizschwert.htm
 http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/355700/
Best is to use BUZ11, they can stand more than the original ones.
In case the fan only switches off while switching off the ignition, then one or several of the MOSFET's in the sword are defective and give permanent signal to run. This has nothing to do with the relay in the sword handle. This relay only activates at "max fan speed" adjustment respect. defects.
The BUZ 74 have 12A and 40 Watt, the BUZ11 have 25-30A and 75 Watt!
To cover the soldered items and protect them against moisture and damages, either use UHU hard, that is a glue which dries quickly,suitable for flexible material and all materials, moisture resistant and heat resistant from -50 to 100 degree celsius. Or any other glue to protect the soldered items. Or a 2-component glue, if you want to make it faster to dry. It should seal all to protect against moisture, that is the most important. And of course it must be resitant against certain temperatures as mentioned above. So any all purpose glue will do probably.
or conformal coating  http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...tage%20009.jpg

[Beumers]

Hi Erich.
Thanks.
I wasn't clear enough.
It's the control unit for the IHKA. It's attached to the Heizschwert. It's the one with 4 connectors. Blue,Yellow,white and green on the corners.
I made some pictures but there is a problem to attach them to this mail. I have to look into that.

[Beumers]

Hi Erich.
2 pictures. the orinals were to large a file.

Thanks Henk.