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Alt 05.10.2019, 21:25   #1
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard Continues heat at window vent.

Hi all.
After a long frustrated pauze, I again try to figure out what's wrong with the IHKA in my '86-E32. 735i.
Problem: Full heat on the driverside at the windshield vent under all conditions.
Only when the middle wheel is on Zero( everything off) there is no heat.

I followed some guides from the forum.

At the watervalves on pin 1 there's 12-V. when on cold and 0-V when on hot. Ign on.
When inbetween hot&cold on pin2 Y/BR/PRP there is continue zero. No puls. Control light full power
On pin3 Y/BR there is nothing at all.

The watervalves are not in great condition but when tested I can hear them click.

When I put a clamb on the intake water hoose to the watervalves the heat is a little bit less but it's still very noticable there. This puzzles me because it should prevent hot water from getting into the system.

I don't know if it makes sence to some of you. Pin 1/2/3 are not correct. But is it a problem in the unit on the center dash or in the control unit behind the so called sword. The one with the 4 collored conectors.

I tested a spare unit on the dash but that had no 12V on pin one so I had to asume it's broke.

Regards Henk Beumers.
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Alt 06.10.2019, 12:47   #2
fuffi_lwl
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Registriert seit: 24.08.2010
Ort: Zwischen Hamburg und Schwerin
Fahrzeug: E32-750iA Bj. Dez '90; Smart Roadster 115PS
Standard

The watervalves may be operating correctly in terms of the electronics (the clicking noise), but they can still be defective. The problem is the rubber seal, if it is broken the valve can not shut off the water flow mechanically, even if it is working, ie moving.. See this link for broken seals: Interner Link) http://www.7-forum.com/forum/showpos...18&postcount=5

To further check the electronic side of things you can measure the resistance between Pin 1 and 2, and also between Pin 1 and 3. The readings should show some Ohms. If you get readings in the range of Mega-Ohms, you have a broken circuit and the coils are not moving the conical pistons to shut off the water flow. But as I said, even if the coils are working, the rubber seals might be broken.

Clamping off the water input to the valves is a good idea. However, if the heater core is already warm, it takes a while to cool down, especially if the car is stationary. This might be the reason why the heat was still noticable to you.
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Alt 06.10.2019, 18:00   #3
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard

Hallo Fuffi.
I realise the watervalves can be defective even when they make the clicking sound when activated. But I try to fix the biggest problem first. In my opinion the elctrical behavior is way of.
No minus on pin3 can not close the watervalve. If the valve is leeking than for now that is a minor problem. Easy to fix when pin3 has the required minus when inbetween cold&hot.
Also pin2 is not correct because it's full minus whatever position the hot/cold wheel is on. So I try and find out first what's the cause of that. Maybe the resistor in the hot/cold is broke.
I'll measure the Ohm's as you pointed out. But first I go and drive for a while with the input to the valves clambed of. It might well be that the water does not cool down as quickly as I thought. Thanks for pointing that out to me.
Keep you posted.
Thanks Henk.
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Alt 06.10.2019, 21:22   #4
fuffi_lwl
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Registriert seit: 24.08.2010
Ort: Zwischen Hamburg und Schwerin
Fahrzeug: E32-750iA Bj. Dez '90; Smart Roadster 115PS
Standard

To further check the electronics, do the following: Remove the connector and put a current of 12V on Pin 1. Put Pin 2 and 3 to ground, somewhere in the engine bay. This way, the water valves are shut off, so no warm water should enter the heater core, provided that the seals are in good condition.
Without current, the water valves are open, and thus the heater core always warm.

Pinout as follows:
Pin 1: supply voltage 12V
Pin 2: Ground for the valve on drivers side water circuit
Pin 3: Ground for the valve on passenger side water circuit

If the heating is getting cold after this procedure, the signals of IHKA and so on are wrong.

Geändert von fuffi_lwl (06.10.2019 um 21:31 Uhr).
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Alt 07.10.2019, 21:27   #5
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard

Hi Fufi.
I drove around for a while to make sure the water got hot enough. With the intake to the watervalves clambed of, the left vent at the front window got mildly warm. The rest of the vents were all cold. The wheels of the operating unit on the dash all on cold.
So I can drive arond with it without steaming out of the car. Keep in mind that it is allready oktober. I think it's strange. The only explanation I can think of is that the clamb is not completaly shut and lets trough a little bit of water.
No key in Ignition. Blower on Zero. I measured 0.35 Ohm between 1and2(Y/BR/PRP) and no reading between 1and3(Y/BR)
Blower on first position, no reading at all on both 1/2 and 1/3. No Ohm reading.
I'll try and wire pins 1,2and3 as you mentioned to find out if the water flow is stopped by the watervalves.
In the back of my mind I think I already tried this last year. ( Stopped working frustrated.)

Regards Henk.
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Alt 26.10.2019, 19:07   #6
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard

Hi fufi.
A lot of rain and not much time. But now I fabricated a few cables and connected
pin 1 on the watervalves directly to the +connector in the engine bay and pins 2 and 3 to the minus. screw of the shock tower.
It worked perfect. No heat from any of the vents. It surpriced my a litle bit because I thought I tried this a year or so ago.
Never mind. It makes alot more sence now. One of the wires does not connect to the minus, so this means that valve stays open at all times.
I'll check the wires to the control unit at pin 23 or 21 from the white connector. There must be a connector inbetween (X36) the control unit and the watervalves. If the wires are intact the most likely conclusion is a fawlty control unit.
Keep you posted. Henk.
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Alt 27.10.2019, 20:54   #7
fuffi_lwl
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Registriert seit: 24.08.2010
Ort: Zwischen Hamburg und Schwerin
Fahrzeug: E32-750iA Bj. Dez '90; Smart Roadster 115PS
Standard

Nice to hear! I think you are on the right track to finding the solution. The watervalves themselves are not the problem.
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Alt 28.10.2019, 10:45   #8
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard

Hi.
Yes, I hope so. I have to get the control unit out of the car to find out what type it is. it seems there are alot of different types depending on the configuration of the car.
Minor problem. The weather has to play nice though. No fun working in the wet.
Thanks again. I realy thought I tried shortcutting the watervalves before. Must have doen it wrong then.
Henk.
Keep you posted.
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Alt 02.11.2019, 21:46   #9
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard

Update.
Measured the resistence between pin 2and3 from the watervalves to pin
23 and 21 in the white connector from the control unit. Both wires are oké. So the wires are able to deliver the minus to make the valves close. The problem must be in the control unit or further back. I removed and opened the unit to find it in the condition you might expect. Looks clean exept for the two big resistors. The surrounding there turned into a darkened brown. They are known to become very hot. But everything looks oké. I know it means nothing but there are no cracks or loos contacts. I measured the pins 21 and 23 from the outside to the inside connections on the cirquitboard but also they are oké.
I now know the correct specifications of my control unit so I go and find me a spare one.
Does anyone knows if the two resistors are related to the behaviour of the watervalves?
Keep you posted.
Henk.
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Alt 05.11.2019, 15:17   #10
Beumers
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Registriert seit: 22.04.2012
Ort: Hilversum
Fahrzeug: E32-735i dec 1986
Standard

Difficult to find a matching one.
Maybe someone has a spare one he has no use for anymore?
IHKA climat control with airco.

Bosch 1 137 328 010
BEHR 90.901.03.052
BMW 1 374 388

If not, Thanks anyway.
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